Go Fish
Celebrate the sea’s bounty for both good health and good taste.

By Lisa James

   You’ve heard that “fish is brain food.” ’Tis true—eating fish weekly has been found to help keep aging minds sharp. Fortunately, seafood cookery isn’t as daunting as some cooks think it is: The key lies in starting with first-rate ingredients.
   “My recipes...require the excitement of truly fresh fish to make them shine,” says Rick Stein, proprietor of the Padstow Seafood School in England, in Rick Stein’s Complete Seafood (Ten Speed Press). The idea, he says, is to “choose the best-looking fish on the counter and use that” instead of fixating on flounder, let’s say, when the bass is best. How do you know what’s fresh? Stein says to look for clear, bright eyes; shiny, slick skin; pink or red gills; and a sealike odor. Live lobsters and crabs should show “clear signs of muscular activity”; buy cooked ones only from a fish store you trust. Whole shrimp, with the head on, are generally of better quality than tail-only shrimp...


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